Provincetown is slowly changing from the place we began visiting a couple of decades ago. For each long-time visitor, some changes are welcome and some are not.
We remember when we had to pack garlic because we couldn't buy it here. We love being able to buy good wine, great coffee and cheese at a number of places throughout the town.
We miss some of the texture that the crackled paint and tilted shutters of tired old houses gave the streets. Now each year more and more of the buildings are spiffed up and for sale as trophy homes.
This week is a lot quieter than last. We can take a quiet walk on the beach and sit and read on the deck with less noise from the street, the beach and neighboring porches.
For now, enough of the charm remains to make it worth a return trip. Perhaps we'll have to visit in the off season, in years to come, to enjoy the peace and quiet we seek.
When we want to remember the good old days we reread Michael Cunningham's book, Lands End. The part-time resident of P-Town and best selling author of books like "The Hours," takes you on a stroll through the spirit and shape of the town as it was a few years ago.
